Many people are aware of the common dangers with decorations and such things, though much has been a bit overblown and almost fallen into “old wives’ tale” categories.  Tinsel and ribbons are certainly a danger, especially for cats, as they can cause life-threatening strictures of the intestinal tract.  Poinsettias really aren’t very dangerous.  In fact, your pet would have to eat a full plant or more in order to become seriously ill, so a few nibbles on a leaf aren’t going to be toxic.  You also have to worry about low-lying candles being hit by wagging or swishing tails and knocking flames to the ground or even catching fur on fire.  But one of the biggest concerns I have is one that is usually overlooked by most people.

In almost any holiday we can count on one constant factor, whether it’s Independence Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas, or many others.  Food!  We love to eat when we have get-togethers, and when that dog looks up at us with the deep brown eyes it can be very difficult to resist sharing.  Even if you don’t give in to the puppy pleading or insistent kitty meows, pets are notoriously good scavengers and can make quick work of food left on counters or short tables.  But instead of this activity being cute, it can instead be very dangerous.  And since there is so much baking going on for so many weeks in December, the risk is often greater than even the traditionally food-heavy holiday of Thanksgiving.

Most pets will manage to get through such “dietary indiscretion” with a midly upset stomach or diarrhea.  But who wants to clean up such messes from the carpet?  A greater worry is pancreatitis.  This disease is a severe inflammation of the pancreas, an organ which among other tasks produces key digestive enzymes.  Pancreatitis can cause vomiting and a decrease in appetite on the mild side, but has the potential to even be fatal.  Very rich, fatty, or rancid foods are the biggest culprits, especially when eaten by breeds that are especially prone such disorders (schnauzers being one of the most susceptible).  I have seen a shih-tzu die from eating a plate of stir-fry and seen a cocker spaniel almost die from eating a couple of hot dogs that had been in the trash.  Even the cases that survive often need hospitalization and extensive treatment. 

The other big food-related risk is one more people are aware of, and with all of the cookie and desert baking that goes on close to Christmas it is even more of a concern.  Chocolate is potentially toxic, but there are a number of factors that need to be considered.  First, the type of chocolate makes a big difference.  The active ingredient, theobromine, is not present in white chocolate, is found in small amounts in milk chocolate, and then in increasing concentrations in dark and unsweetened chocolates (therefore the kind often used in baking is potentially the most dangerous).  The other consideration is the pet’s size, as the toxicity is dose-dependent.  The larger the pet, the less potential for toxicity.  For example, a poodle eating a Hershey’s Kiss may have some mild but not dangerous signs (and likely won’t have anything noticable), but eating a part of a bag of baker’s chocolate could be potentially fatal.  A Labrador retriever wouldn’t be phased eating an entire candy bar, and would likely have less noticable signs with a bag of dark chocolate.

The bottom line is that you should never give your pets human food and should be very aware of where they are during gatherings with lots of food around.  Visitors may not know your rules against such treats, and your dog isn’t going to say “No, really, don’t leave that plate of cookies and nachos on the coffee table.”  All of these food-related disorders are highly preventable, and avoiding such temptations can make the holidays much happier for everyone in the family.

Holiday lights – Don’t forget electric cords connected to lights are a tempting chew-toy for any kitten or puppy. Please secure or cover them to prevent shocks or burns as well as the potential for falling lighted objects which could cause injury.

Holiday decorations – Tinsel, ribbon and string are dangerous for pets because they can be swallowed and cause severe injury to the intestinal tract. Also, keep lit candles far from wagging tails and curious noses and whiskers.

Christmas trees – If you have a lovable, large-breed dog or a tree-climbing feline, you can expect your Christmas tree may be toppled– and the tree will lose. Make sure your tree is well secured by anchoring its top to the ceiling or a wall using a strong cord.

Mistletoe, holly, pine needles, and other tasty greenery – Although you would never pop these into your mouth, your dog or cat may. Keep these plants and decorations out of reach to avoid gastrointestinal upset or worse.

Poinsettias – It’s a common holiday belief that poinsettias are toxic. Pets may get an upset stomach from eating a few leaves, but they would need to eat a very large amount for it to be toxic.

People food – Your dog may beg for leftovers from the holiday turkey, but it’s best for their health if you don’t give in. Table scraps covered in rich gravy and fatty poultry skin can cause severe gastrointestinal upset or pancreatitis, a very serious and painful disease. Instead, try a turkey rawhide or a treat made just for them.

Holiday goodies/wrappers – There are many foods that tempt pets during the holidays but are unhealthy. Chocolate contains theobromine, a caffeine like ingredient that can be toxic to pets. Dark, semi-sweet or Baker’s chocolate contain the highest amount of theobromine and are the most dangerous. Packaging materials can cause choking or intestinal blockage. *If you suspect your pet has eaten something poisonous or potentially harmful, call your Banfield or local emergency hospital immediately.

Pet Escapes – Pet escapes seem to rise during this time of year when pets may become frightened by changes in routine and activity, and overwhelmed by friends and family stopping by the house for holiday visits. Remember to keep an eye on the entrances and exits of your home in order to keep your pets from escaping. Get your friend an early gift-a new properly fitting collar with ID tags.

Adequate Shelter – Remember that pets need shelter from wind and rain/snow when the temperatures drop during the winter holiday season. Old or chronically ill pets may have more difficulty during cold weather. For pets living or spending long periods of time outdoors, you may need to increase amount of food fed since it takes extra calories to stay warm. Pets can damage their paws by cutting them on icy surfaces.

Icy Conditions – Drinking water can turn into ice during winter weather so make sure your pets have access to fresh water. In some climates a heated water dish may be necessary.

Make an Emergency Plan

Does your family have an emergency plan?  Does your plan include your pets?

Plan for what should be done in different scenarios.  For example, in a situation where staying home is best (such as tornadoes), have a plan to get your pets into a safe room with you.  Small pets can usually be carried in their habitat.  Cats and any pets whose habitats are too large to transport (ferrets and parrots, for example) can be transported in kennels.  Have leashes ready for the dogs.  Have treats on hand to ensure everyone’s cooperation!

Have the same securing devices on hand for an emergency in which the family would have to leave the home, such as flooding or a fire.

Do not leave pets alone at home if it is at all possible to find and secure them.  Such sad news stories are run every spring of dogs tethered in their yard or trapped in their house, unable to escape flood waters or other severe weather.

Find a Good Neighbor

Have an agreement with a key-worthy neighbor that you will secure each other’s pets and bring them to a safe place in a situation in which it would be unsafe for an away from home family to return home before evacuating the area.

Stock the Car and the Basement

To ensure leaving the house or going to a safe room goes smoothly, have these essentials packed in the car and safe room before an emergency occurs:

• Veterinary records
• Blankets
• Travel dishes
• Bottled water
• Travel cases containing each pet’s food
• Supply of medications your pets are taking with directions
• First aid kit
• Day-to-day pet care instructions in case your pets are separated from you or you are unable to care for them
• A copy of your emergency plan

ID Your Pets

Have each pet microchipped and wearing a collar with identification tags:

• Personalized tag with your pet’s first and last name and your home and cell phone numbers
• Microchip tag with microchip number
• Rabies tag with your veterinary hospital’s name and number and your pet’s rabies tag number

Check your pet’s tags to make sure all information is up to date.

Housing After the Emergency

Have a plan in place in case you need to make living arrangements after an emergency.  Will human shelters in your area house pets?  Will pet shelters temporarily house displaced pets?  Keep in mind, in the event of widespread disaster, both human and pet shelters may be overwhelmed, and if a friend or family member can help with pet care, that would be ideal.

Have a well thought out, WRITTEN emergency plan that covers common emergencies in your area.  May you have the best emergency plan ever written, and may you never, ever need to use it.

One thing that is top of mind is parasite control for our pets – protecting them from things such as fleas, ticks and mosquitoes.  What a lot of people may not realize is that these pests are out and about in the environment much longer in the year than just the summer months, and that protecting year round is often times the best way to prevent infestations/infections.

As pet owners, we are most aware of the bugs that we can see – but what about those we can’t? Fleas, ticks and mosquitoes can all transmit other parasites and infections to our pets, which cause more damage than just the flea or mosquito ever could on its own. These internal parasites feed off of your pet, and will even cause discomfort if your pet has a large number of internal parasites. Once your pet is infected, they can then pass these parasites to other pets through shedding of eggs in their bowel movements or by having a mosquito pick up larva while it’s taking a blood meal (similar to how malaria is transmitted).  Internal parasites such as tapeworms are even transmissible to people! Other parasites such as heartworm can be deadly, and your pet may not even show symptoms until lasting damage to their cardiovascular system has occurred. Beyond other parasites, ticks can sometimes transmit infectious diseases such as lyme disease or ehrlichiosis. These infections may cause muscle fatigue, depression, and skin rashes. If left untreated, these diseases can lead to problems with the heart and central nervous system and become very difficult to treat.

When choosing a method of parasite control, it can often be daunting with the number of products that are available. Many products will protect against one or two of the parasites, but getting protection against all of them can be challenging, and often requires giving your pet two different products.  How do you know which one is best for your pet? The one that will provide the most protection? The one that is safest for your family? Checking with your veterinary team before using any product is one of the safest ways to go – they can help you understand how each product works and if it meets the needs of your pet. They will also be able to discuss how to use the products, and what things you should be aware of to keep your pet and family safe as some products can be harmful if given to the wrong species, or even if you get some on your hands.

So before you go out on vacation, or that camping trip be sure to check in with your veterinary team to see what sort of parasite control you should be giving your pet – and don’t forget that it is just as important to continue protecting your pet long after the camping trip is over!

Household Drugs

• NSAIDS (non-steroidal anti-inflammatories) such as Advil (ibuprofen), Aleve (Naproxen) & Motrin (aspirin)
• Acetaminophen (Tylenol)
• Most prescription drugs meant for humans. Ingestion of any medication not specified for that individual pet is reason to go see a veterinarian. The drugs listed below are some of the more dangerous substances for pets, but any ingestion of human medications should be investigated.
  • Antidepressants such as Effexor, Cymbalta, Prozac and Lexapro
  • ADD/ADHD Medications such as Concerta, Adderall and Ritalin
  • Benzodiazepines and Sleep Aids such as Xanax, Klonopin, Ambien and Lunestra
  • Birth control such as estrogen, estradiol and progesterone
  • ACE (angiotensin-converting enzyme) inhibitors such as zestril and altace
  • Beta-blockers such as Tenormin, Troprol and Coreg
  • Thyroid hormones such as Amour dessicated thyroid and Synthroid
  • Cholesterol lowering agents such as Lipitor, Zocor and Crestor
  • Human supplements, nutraceuticals or herbal remedies that haven’t been recommended by a veterinarian for your pet

Garden Items

• Bait traps for rodents, snails and slugs
• Rodenticides
• Insecticides
• Blood Meal
• Fertilizers
• Plants
  • Autumn Crocus
  • Azalea
  • Cyclamen
  • Daffodil
  • Dieffenbachia
  • Hyacinth
  • Tulips
  • Kalanchoe
  • Lily
  • Oleander
  • Sago Palm
  • Foxglove
  • Rhododendron
  • Compost
  • Mushrooms
  • Salt water
  • Toads in certain areas of the country

Household chemicals

• Antifreeze
• Paint
• Paint thinner
• Expandable foam insulation
• Tar
• Pool chemicals
• Drain cleaners
• Lead (lead paint chips or dust)
• Zinc (pennies made after 1982)

Human foods

• Sugarless products that contain xylitol (gum or other food products)
• Chocolate
• Foil wrappers
• Coffee grounds, or any products with caffeine
• Avocados
• Fatty foods, such as fat from meat, many nuts
• Pan drippings
• Macadamia nuts
• Grapes or raisin
• Alcohol
• Garlic
• Onion
• Raw meat
• Dairy products
• Baby food
• Yeast dough
• Unripe tomatoes
• Spinach
• Mushrooms

I am a staunch advocate of microchips. I believe they are a much safer way to identify your pet. Collars can come unlatched, either by accident or on purpose, and tags can get worn over time – making necessary contact information unreadable. The microchip, on the other hand, stays in the pet forever. But getting your pet microchipped is just the first step in a lifelong commitment to maintaining updated information with the microchipping company.

The second step of responsible microchipped pet ownership is making sure the microchip is registered appropriately with the company. Some veterinary clinics offer this service as part of the implantation process. However, I recommend for that client-company relationship to be established early on, thus increasing the likelihood that future updates will be done too. I have had too many pets show up at my doorstep with a microchip that is not registered to any owner. It is very sad for me and my team when we realize that the pet will never make it back to their original home simply because this step was not taken.

The third step is to make sure that all your current contact information is kept continually up to date with the microchipping company. In our rapid paced world telephone numbers are updated with frequency. Nowadays, people move homes a lot more rapidly than they did before. Furthermore, after witnessing some of the tragic stories following Hurricane Katrina, I now counsel my clients to add secondary contact information, at least in the form of a phone number, for a friend or family member who lives far away, ideally in another state. Thus, if your family gets completely misplaced from their place of residence, there will be someone else who can take that call and get you reunited with your pet.

Countless families go to the trouble and expense of microchipping their pet, only to forget to register the microchip, or keep their contact information up to date. These families never get to see their pet after it has been lost. Therefore, to optimize the likelihood that your entire family can be reunited after your fuzzy friend gets lost, make sure you follow these three easy steps: 1) get a microchip, 2) make sure it’s registered, 3) keep all information up to date.

Content provided by Jo Marshall, CVT and Justine A. Lee, DVM, DACVECC, Associate Director of Veterinary Services

Cyanobacteria (also known as blue-green algae) are microscopic bacteria found in freshwater lakes, streams, ponds and brackish water ecosystems. They can produce toxins (such as microcystins and anatoxins) that affect people, livestock and Pets that swim in and drink from the algae-contaminated water. Blue-green algae grow and colonize to form “blooms” that give the water a blue-green appearance or a “pea soup” like color. It also looks like blue or green paint on the surface of the water. Because the algae float, they may be blown by the wind into thick, concentrated mats near the shore, thus making them easily accessible to livestock, Pets and people. Algal concentrations vary throughout the year, but are most abundant during periods of hot weather in mid- to late-summer months and are most likely to be found in nutrient-rich water. While most blue-green algae blooms do not produce toxins, it is not possible to determine the presence of toxins without testing. Thus, all blooms should be considered potentially toxic. Very small exposures, such a few mouthfuls of algae-contaminated water, may result in fatal poisoning.

Dogs that enjoy swimming and playing in lakes and ponds  may be exposed to blue-green algae. Clinical signs of poisoning are dependent on the toxin involved. Microcystins can result in liver damage or failure. Signs of liver injury include vomiting, diarrhea, blood in stool or black, tarry stool, weakness, pale mucous membranes, jaundice, seizures, disorientation, coma, and shock.  Death generally follows within days as a result of liver failure. Blood work changes include elevated in liver enzymes, a low blood sugar, a low protein, and even abnormal clotting. Aggressive, immediate treatment is necessary to help treat this quick-acting, potentially fatal poison!

Anatoxins result in neurotoxicity evidenced by excessive secretions (e.g., salivation, lacrimation, etc.), neurologic signs (including muscle tremors, muscle rigidity, paralysis, etc.), blue discoloration of the skin and mucous membranes, and difficulty breathing. Death follows within minutes to hours of exposure as a result of respiratory paralysis. Livestock that graze around affected ponds or lakes and are able to drink from them are often found dead near the water source. Treatment includes anti-seizure medication, oxygen, and aggressive care by your veterinarian.

As the prognosis for a Pet surviving a toxic exposure to blue-green algae is very poor once clinical signs have occurred, immediate veterinary intervention is needed. If the exposure was recent and the Pet has no clinical signs, immediate decontamination (like inducing vomiting and administering charcoal to bind any toxins in the intestines) is recommended.   Bathing is recommended for all animals with dermal exposures. Protective clothing should be worn by owners who are exposed to poisoned animals (e.g., during the bathing process to remove the blue-green algae). Further care includes aggressive monitoring with symptomatic and supportive care of the critically ill patient. Unfortunately, there is no antidote for the toxins produced by blue-green algae.

Given the serious risk and the poor prognosis following small ingestions, the avoidance of all blue-green algae blooms is the best way to prevent poisoning. Ponds and lakes should be fenced off from grazing livestock during key times of the season to prevent ingestion of contaminated water. Dogs should not be allowed access to water with visible blooms of algae. Algae blooms should be removed from backyard ponds and appropriately and safely discarded. Pet owners should be aware of the potential for public health risks. All suspect blooms should be reported to local environmental regulatory authorities.

If you suspect your Pet has been poisoned, it is best to immediately take your Pet to your Banfield veterinarian or an emergency veterinarian. In the event that you are unable to do that, you can contact Pet Poison Helpline at 1-800-213-6680 for initial information about the potential toxin your Pet may have been exposed to. Pet Poison Helpline is a service available 24 hours, seven days a week for Pet owners, veterinarians and veterinary technicians. Staff can provide treatment advice for poisoning cases of all species, including dogs, cats, birds, small mammals, large animals and exotic species. As the most cost-effective option for animal poison control care in North America, Pet Poison Helpline’s fee of $35 per incident includes follow-up consultation for the duration of the poison case. You can also find additional information on poisonings at http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/.

Dogs and cats can be exposed to Salmonella from contaminated Pet food, from exposure to other animals that are shedding Salmonella in their feces and from contaminated human foods that we give our Pets, such as raw meats and eggs.  Most dogs and cats when exposed to Salmonella do not get sick, but they can shed the Salmonella organisms in their feces for three to six weeks or more.  These feces can act as a source of exposure to other Pets or people.  Occasionally Salmonella will cause vomiting and diarrhea in Pets, and much less commonly, severe illness with endotoxemia and fever.  Clearly, if your Pet had any of these signs, you should see your veterinarian immediately.

We can reduce the risk of exposure to Salmonella by following a few simple hygienic rules.  We should never ever give our Pets raw meats, and we should always make sure that the meats and eggs are fully cooked. All food and water bowls should be cleaned every day, and food storage containers should be thoroughly washed when it is empty and prior to adding new food.  It is also important to be hygienic when disposing of feces, and always wash our hands thoroughly.

Pet travel, especially by airline, has received a lot of attention lately because of the incident with American Airlines but it’s generally quite safe, provided you plan ahead and take the necessary precautions. Basically, whether it’s by car or airline I’ve found that it all works best if you build your travel schedule around your pets – people with children will know exactly what I mean. The idea is to try to recreate your usual domestic routine while you’re traveling. Feed them the same food they’re used to at the same time each day, provide frequent access to water, protect them from extremes of temperature and from dangerous situations (which pretty much means not letting them out of your sight) and organize their veterinary needs well in advance. This is much easier on a road trip, but these things need to be considered for an airline trip as well.

Plan ahead and educate yourself and you’ll be fine. Pet travel companies can be especially helpful. Word-of-mouth is the best way to find a good one, but contact plenty and interview them too. Domestic travel is often easy enough to organize on your own, but if you’re not traveling with your pets by your side, these travel companies can be a godsend and they’re a must when your pets are traveling internationally.

Food – Take more than enough food for the entire journey and bring their usual food dishes, too. If they’re flying, take some food with you in your luggage or have some delivered to your destination and make allowances for special dietary needs well ahead of time.

Water – We can survive without food for weeks, but only a few days without water. Never leave on a trip without plenty of fresh water and water dishes. On road trips, stop every two hours at the most to give them a chance to drink. If your pets are in crates, you can fill the clip-on water dish and put it in the freezer a day or two before you leave. The ice will melt slowly, which will provide them with cold water and won’t slop all over their bedding

Temperature – Plan your journeys so that your pets are out of the heat. Again, this is easier on a road trip, but if they’re traveling by airline, check the forecast and book (or re-book if necessary) your flights for days where temperatures are over 45 and under 85. Airlines have strict rules about this, too.

If your dog or cat is brachycephalic (has a squashed-in nose), they don’t pant as efficiently and can overheat, so it’s best to take these guys into the cabin with you. Airline baggage compartments are kept at 62 degrees, which is great, but temperatures can get quite high while waiting to be loaded or while the plane is stationary. The ice-block in the crate’s water dish will help.

If your pet’s coat is long or thick, shave them. I don’t care how you think they look. Summers in Australia get really hot and I’ve treated heat stroke cases so I have strong opinions about this.

Dangerous situations – A sturdy, well put-together crate is your best friend. If you crash your car it will protect your Pet in the accident and it will stop them escaping on the tarmac – this is usually a bigger danger with pets and airports than the temperature.

I know that crate training is hard to do, but it’s worth putting in the time well before they travel so that they’re used to their traveling home. Always provide soft, absorbent bedding and put in something that has your smell. Don’t use anything that you’ll want to use again after the trip because accidents happen; assume that whatever goes into the crate will go into the trash afterward.

For cats, have a litter tray in your car and let them out into the car every couple of hours to give them the chance to use it (not while the car’s moving, obviously!). On longer airline flights, they may be in the crate for a while so you may need to rely on the absorbent bedding.

When the crate is in your car, use straps to connect it to the tie-down points so it can’t fly about. Most manufacturers make airline-approved crates, but check the airlines’ website or the IPATA site for guidelines about how the crate should be built. For dogs, make sure they can sit and stand without their ears touching the roof.

When your pets are out of the crate, always make sure that cats are in a secure enclosed area and that dogs are on a leash. You might just be letting them out for a pee at a rest stop, but if they chase something or get frightened then they may be gone for good, it’s not worth skipping the minor hassle of attaching a leash.

Veterinary – Making sure their vaccines and rabies shots are up-to-date is a no-brainer. You’ll need to plan ahead for office visits if they need any health certificates or medications dispensed. Make sure you have enough medications for your entire trip and store them appropriately. Don’t just plan on filling a script when you arrive. If your pets are travelling to a country with quarantine requirements, you’ll need to plan well in advance to make sure all their treatments, certificates and inspections are done at the right time. Don’t take this lightly; failing to meet quarantine requirements will make your life difficult. For a road trip, have a look for veterinary clinics along your route and for airline trips contact a clinic at your destination and let them know of your travel plans (some countries might require you to nominate a veterinarian before your pets depart).

I hope that helps. Pet travel can be difficult, but it doesn’t have to be; the better prepared you are the better your pets will be for it.

Because I work around veterinarians each day, I knew the onset of his second seizure within just a few minutes of the first required emergency medical attention. I threw on shoes and a jacket, grabbed his medical records and drove to DoveLewis. This being my first experience in an animal emergency hospital, combined with Emerson’s worst seizure activity to date, I was terrified. I know multiple seizures in a short period of time can be life-threatening.

When I arrived at DoveLewis, Emerson was immediately seen by a compassionate veterinarian, who told me that even though Emerson is on anti-seizure medication, seizure “clustering” can still happen on occasion, and for no apparent reason. Emerson was then hooked up intravenously to medication that would help break the cycle of seizures, followed by a two-night stay in the hospital for monitoring.

I can’t adequately explain what it felt like to say goodbye to my little pup and leave to go home that night. The two days following were emotional. I missed my buddy, although I knew he was in good hands. A veterinarian from DoveLewis called me every morning with an update on his status. On Sunday, I was able to go pick him up. I’m happy to report that he is stable and back to his normal self. I followed up with an appointment with my Banfield veterinarian, who conducted a neurological exam and completed blood work. As his owner, the best thing I can do about his condition is to manage his symptoms with medication and ensure that he lives a healthy lifestyle and regular preventive care. I am grateful to Banfield and DoveLewis for taking such good care of him when he needed it.

Having a dog with epilepsy is always a difficult, stressful situation. Nevertheless, had I known Emerson would eventually develop this condition, I still would have chosen him when I adopted him from the Oregon Humane Society. I know most people think their Pets are special and unique, and I am no exception. Emerson has brought such immense joy, laughter and comfort to my life. I feel so blessed to be able to provide him with a loving home.