Gidget

Since I have worked here for several years, I’ve definitely learned how preventive care needs in pets parallel the preventive care needs in humans. This became especially evident when comparing my efforts to get Gidget to lose weight and my own efforts to lose weight.

Weight loss has always been my main concern with Gidget. Since I’ve adopted her, she’s had few illnesses. But for the first two years that I took her to Banfield, reports from her comprehensive exam always had the “Overweight” box as checked. Just like most women, I also worry about my own weight. Working in an office and living in a city of constant rain lends themselves well for a sedentary lifestyle. Making Gidget lose weight meant I had to make some major life changes in her just like I had to do for myself.

Both Gidget and I like to eat, but we had to practice portion control. For Gidget, this meant that she would no longer be allowed to graze from her food bowl and was switched to only eating twice a day. After months of her vocalizing her distress and her inability to understand why she couldn’t eat as much as she wanted, she came to understand that she had a new routine and only begged for food around the times that she would be fed.

I am a potato chip addict, and I have been known to graze on chips of all kinds throughout the day. For me, her desire to graze all day was the same as me controlling my cravings for junk food. I realized that I didn’t need to snack as much between meals and definitely not late at night. Once I had set my mind to eating less chips, candy and fast food, I eventually became used to not eating them and sometimes I could feel the negative effects of eating these items through decreased energy. I still enjoy the occasional basket of fries just like Gidget enjoys tuna, but I don’t make them part of my regular diet just like I don’t make tuna a regular part of Gidget’s diet.

Exercise also became an important of our routines. When I first started using play as an exercise for Gidget, I noticed that she would pant after only a few minutes. She wasn’t used to exerting herself, especially with her extra weight. Once she lost weight, Gidget was more eager to play. I made a point in finding time once or twice a week to play and get her to run around my apartment. She even got excited when I would bring out her favorite mouse on a string. She knew that meant I would be dragging that mouse around the house for quite a while.

This was the same for me. I had struggled with finding a workout routine that I liked. I tried multiple videos and treadmills. I eventually found a workout class at a local community center, and I’ve been going to that same class for the last two years. For the first few months, I was struggling in the class, but eventually, just like with Gidget, I found an enjoyable workout, got into the routine and actually liked working out.

Much of what Gidget needed was what I needed: routine. We also benefited in the same way: healthier weight and decreased risk of illness. While Gidget can’t be as proud as I am for my decreasing jeans size, at least I know that I have probably added years to her life.

For Banfield’s resources on nutrition and weight control, check out the Nutrition section of our website.

If you pet does not eat his entire meal for the day, you should always discard any uneaten food each day, and clean the bowl before the next meal.  If you pet enjoys canned diets, opened canned foods should be stored and covered in the refrigerator for a maximum of 3 days.  However, most pets, especially cats do not like cold food straight from the refrigerator.  Cats prefer to eat food that is close in temperature to their own body temperature.  Therefore, it is helpful to warm wet foods slightly in the microwave to body temperature.  Use caution, however, as this temperature is not the same hot temperatures that humans prefer their food! 

Providing fresh water each day for your pet is equally as important as good nutrition.  The water bowl should be cleaned and refreshed with clean water at least once a day.  There are also some situations where your veterinarian may recommend that your pet needs to drink additional water.  Some tips to encourage water intake include

• Water intake can be increased by feeding canned food or feeding a dry diet formulated with additional salt
• Provide easy access to fresh water at all times.  Cats are nocturnal and may prefer to drink in the evening
• Provide a bowl with a wide surface area.  Cats have very sensitive whiskers and many seem to prefer a large bowl in which the whiskers do not touch the sides of the bowl.  The water bowl should be kept full at all times
• A variety of water types (Brita, distilled, bottled, warm tap water, cold tap water) can be offered
• Flavoring the water or providing ice cubes flavored by tuna or clam juice may help encourage water consumption. However do not sweeten the water as cats lack sweet taste receptors (defective Tas 1r2)
• Some pets prefer a source of running water, and pet-specific water fountains are available at your local pet store 
• It is important to keep food and water bowls away from the litter box area.  The water bowl must be clean (cats have a very keen sense of smell and are easily turned off by odors on the edge of the bowl). 
• Some pets prefer a clear glass bowl; others stainless steel or ceramic.

And always remember, some cats prefer not to share their bowl (especially with dogs)!

This was the question that my veterinarian asked last year when I went in to pick up my cat after surgery. It was a question I was totally unprepared for. At just over a year, Stanford was starting to develop the “fat pad” that most house cats get, but I hadn’t paid it much attention – until that moment.  Having worked in a veterinary hospital for several years, I already knew the standard suggestions for increasing activity or changing to a lower calorie diet, and being a cat owner, I was skeptical about getting Stanford to exercise more. I asked several of my peers and other veterinarians that I know for their ideas and what they do with their cats to help them maintain a healthy body weight.

One of the items suggested was to get him a treat ball. These balls are designed to hold kibble and have a small hole that when it is batted around, would drop out the food. The idea being that he would now have to start working for his food. It sounded like it might work, so I picked one up from the toy aisle and went home determined to help him get back to a healthy body weight.

As most cat owners are when bringing home a new toy, I was hopeful that it would last beyond the typical 5 minutes before he went back to playing with the paper bag or cardboard box. I put his normal portion of food into the ball, shook it around to try and get him excited, and set it on the ground. After batting it around a couple times, one kibble fell out and Stanford looked up at me with a face that said nothing but “You’ve got to be kidding me.” After more failed attempts over several weeks to get him to eat his food from the ball, I went back to putting his food in his dish and the treat ball was chased into obscurity somewhere under the couch.

A couple months ago, I heard him playing in the kitchen and looked up to see what he had, and low and behold, it was the ball! Although there was no food in it, he was happily chasing it around the kitchen. I quickly went to the cupboard and grabbed his bag of treats, grabbed the ball, and plopped a couple in. Once he resumed playing with the ball, the treats started to pop out and he continued to play until every last piece dropped!

Since he rediscovered the ball, I’ve started mixing in his normal food with some of his treats and putting this in the ball while I go to work and still measuring out the amount that he gets on a daily basis. I’m excited to come home and find the ball either empty, or nearly empty, and as it gets closer to his next vet appointment I’m looking forward to getting to answer the question “What are you doing to help his weight,” knowing that I truly am!

I consider myself “lucky” in that one of my dogs, Tucker, has food allergies. This means that I am really good about not feeding either of them anything that isn’t their regular diet. This doesn’t mean I am immune to the “I’m so hungry and cute and I haven’t eaten for days” puppy-dog eyes. It just means that it’s much easier for me to think about how Tucker will start getting red and itchy, going nuts chewing at himself, after he’s gone off his regular food. Sure, him being allergic means he has to be on a special diet, but it actually has the nice benefit of ensuring that I keep him on a healthy diet too. After all, I see the effects of my spoiling him within a couple of days. He’s miserable when his allergies act up, so it’s easier for me to remember to ignore his plaintive looks.

Not all pet parents have allergic pets, though, and it is a lot harder for them to see the effects of what they are feeding their pet. However, nutrition is probably the number one thing that we can do as pet parents to positively, or negatively, impact the quality, and quantity, of our pets’ lives. It’s also one of the easiest. After all, we feed them, so what could possibly be easier than including all that “health” in an activity we already do daily?

So why don’t we all ensure healthy nutrition for our pets? One of the biggest barriers is perceived cost. Notice I said “perceived” cost. People rarely calculate how many actual meals they get out of a bag of food. This means that people often select the cheaper bag, not realizing that they will actually have to feed their pet twice as many cups a meal than the more expensive bag. What this translates to is a lot more bags bought for a lot less meals. It can even be more expensive in the end. Not to mention that these cheaper brands invariably produce more waste from the pet, as they are full of non-digestible fillers and can be likened to eating junk food at every meal. Just as we can survive on these paltry diets, so can our pets. However, the effect on their bodies is the same as on ours. Pets suffer the same diet-related health issues that people do today – obesity, diabetes, kidney disease, to name a few. 

Furthermore, pet food isn’t just for maintenance anymore. There are a number of companies that specialize in making prescription diets. They are called “prescription diets” because they are the equivalent of getting a medical prescription for a health condition. There are diets for kidney issues, joint problems and skin disease, to name a few. These diets are more expensive than maintenance diets but they are often economical when matched against the medications that no longer have to be provided to the pet following the transition to the prescription diet. It’s not just about the dollar value; pets on these diets also tend to get better outcomes because people remember to feed them, even if they forget to give them their pills. Of course, as with every other prescription, it’s important to make sure your pet is on the right one. Make sure the diet you choose for your pet has been prescribed by your veterinarian.

Bottom line, nutrition is a key ingredient of health. This is as true in our pets as it is for us. Ask your veterinarian what you can do to improve your pet’s life through nutrition. Tucker is no longer red and itchy, and though he still breaks my heart with his “give me a treat” eyes, I am happy knowing that he’s not miserable because of something I gave him to eat.

While treats can enhance Emerson’s quality of life, I don’t use them as a substitute for nutrition or a high-quality diet. He receives a daily chew treat that contains special enzymes that help clean his teeth and in turn, improves his breath. While Emerson’s food allergies severely limit his treat intake options, I am convinced the absence of excess treats is one contributor to his healthy weight. Another factor of his slim waist is my strict adherence to the food intake guidelines indicated on the back of the feeding bag. Because his seizure medication increases his appetite, Emerson would enthusiastically consume much more than the recommended daily amount of kibble. However, I have to resist his big brown eyes in the name of his long-term best interest.

I might not be able to eliminate his medical conditions, but I know his overall health and wellness are increased because he receives excellent nutrition and portion control. If you have a question about how to use nutrition as an opportunity to maximize your pet’s health, talk with your veterinarian.

So, let’s tackle a big one for a lot of pets and people: the need, decision and desire to eat better and exercise more, which should ultimately lead to a longer healthier life for you and your pets. While my dog Webster is active enough and self regulates his eating (mom needs to take a lesson), a few of his weekend dog park buddies need to shed some pounds. One of Webster’s dog friends, Sam, is an 8year old overweight yellow lab who is experiencing some problems with his rear wheel drive. A few weeks ago Sam’s dad asked me how to go about helping Sam lose some of the 20 pounds or so he needs to shed. The first thing we did was take inventory of what Sam was currently eating, including the treats he gets every day. Sam has no shame in attempting to get treats from others walking their dogs. He sits sweetly in front of his target, looks up and tips his head ever so slightly to the side to maximize the “I’m weak from hunger and starving” look. His success rate is phenomenal which complicates an accurate daily treat count. Honestly, I think Sam’s dad has no idea how many treats he gets daily and was surprised when he actually took the time to count them.

My instructions to Sam’s dad were as follows:

1. Weigh Sam either at home or at the vet. We don’t really care what the number is right now, but we need it to be able to evaluate our progress
2. Pour the amount of food Sam gets every day into a bowl and then measure it (no cheating). Cut that amount back by 25%. Sam’s dad was immediately worried that he would be hungry. So I told him to add half of one can of fresh cooked or low sodium (rinsed to remove salt) green beans-regular or French cut, I didn’t think Sam would care. Most dogs like green beans, they contain few calories and are easily digested.
3. No table food -it’s complicating to the process because the calorie count is often unknown or underestimated and dog food is better for dogs anyway
4. I instructed Sam’s dad to figure out, and be honest, about how many treats he gets in a day (include all family members and park treats) and cut that by 50%-giving half a bone instead of a whole or giving a whole bone ½ as often. We’ll work specifically on cutting back treats more as time goes by as this is more likely the source of excess calories than the actual meals Sam is fed.  While cutting Sam’s treats in half probably isn’t enough, I know if we cut back too much in the beginning, Sam’s dad will feel bad and our chance of long term success will be diminished. Since Sam’s success is dependent on dad’s ability to stick with the program, the changes have to be acceptable and the whole family has agree to follow the plan.

I saw Sam two weeks after these small changes were implemented and he was doing great.  In another week or so, dad will weigh him again and we will, if needed, adjust food and treats from there. Sam’s dad remarked on how easy these changes were. Once he loses some weight, Sam will likely pick it up a little in terms of exercise and move a little easier and quicker which will burn more calories. Sam is also on medications to help his stiffness and ease his discomfort. This is not  a diet-it’s a lifestyle change that over time (and we’re not in a big hurry) will result in a healthier Sam. I’m sure he’ll always work his treat magic in the park, but his dad can easily adjust for that. Peeled baby carrots or small bites of apple are a good substitute for dog treats.

The biggest challenge in helping our pets lose weight is that it’s 100% up us to make it happen and our pets need us to be strong. Many people equate feeding/treating our pets with love.  And of course, no one wants to feel they are depriving their pet. So to help stay strong, think of the big picture. Many diseases, including diabetes and heart disease, are related to being overweight. If we don’t help our overweight pets stay at or return to a healthy weight, we may be depriving them and ourselves of a longer overall life together and that would be tragic. Here’s to green beans!

Update: I’m happy to report that Sam went to the vet last week to be weighed, and after 3 weeks, has lost 5 pounds. Sam’s dad was very happy and proud of the accomplishment and will continue to stick with the changes. At this point I don’t see any reason to made additional changes. Success means sticking with the program and losing weight over time. Sam and his dad are doing that with great success.

One year ago, after a jump off the couch caused a joint injury—prompting a trip to the veterinarian—it became apparent that my grandma’s dog, Buster, had morphed from festively plump to undeniably overweight. One table scrap at a time, Buster, a 6-year-old Maltese-Poodle weighing in at 18 pounds, developed skin issues and joint pain as a result of carrying several extra pounds.

I knew the process of helping Buster lose weight would require some lifestyle changes, as well as some outside assistance. After speaking with my grandma, I consulted Banfield’s Pet nutritionist, Denise Elliott, BVSc, PhD, Dipl. ACVIM, Dipl. ACVN, for help. Dr. Elliott provided me with a graph to visually chart Buster’s projected weight loss, food intake plan, and exercise routine for 2010. I met with my grandma and showed her the plan—two pages in length—that she agreed to follow each day. Eleven months later, due in large part to my grandma’s diligence and discipline as a responsible Pet owner, we are happy to report that Buster weighs in at a very respectable 13 pounds. As an added benefit, my grandma is substantially more mobile and fit, due to the requisite twice-daily walks with Buster. It wasn’t an easy process. After all, transformation is nothing more than a series of results, plateaus, setbacks and finally, the end result.

Yesterday, during the culmination of my Thanksgiving visit, I drove up to say goodbye to my grandma before leaving town. When I turned the corner leading to her house, I saw something I’ll never forget—my grandma and Buster, walking swiftly and with ease. As I moved closer, my grandma’s face broke into a contagious smile that reached all the way to her eyes. They were approaching the end of their afternoon jaunt around the neighborhood. Buster’s head and tail were high. My grandma’s stride—formerly hindered by a knee problem—was markedly fluid and stable. The pride in my grandma’s grin told me what I already knew. It was all worth it.

Buster and my grandma are living proof that Pets and Pet owners can help one another get into shape. If you have questions about helping your Pet lose weight, contact your local Banfield veterinarian.

The first thing to consider is that the growth period between small and large breed puppies is very different.  In small breeds, the growth period lasts about 8 months. By the time a small breed puppy reaches his adult weight, he will have multiplied his birth weight by 20 times. In comparison, the growth period in large breed dogs lasts until 15 – 18 months, and the growth period can be as long as 24 months in giant breed dogs.  As an adult, a large breed puppy will be 70-90 times larger than when he was born, and a giant breed puppy will be 100 times larger than his birth weight.  In addition the rate of growth varies by size.  For small breeds, a large part of their intense growth phase occurs during the suckling period, where they are getting their nutrition from their mother. However, for larger breeds, most of their intense growth occurs after weaning. Therefore, nutrition errors have more serious consequences on their physical development. 

In addition to these differences in growth rate, there are also differences in the energy and nutrient requirements of different size puppies. Smaller breeds of puppies need relatively more calories than a larger breed.  Feeding a large breed puppy too much energy (too many calories) can lead to orthopedic disease; excessive calorie intake increases the rate of growth.  Growth that is too rapid causes accelerated growth of muscles and bones, with increased joint stress, and may lead to arthritis and other painful problems with cartilage and growth plates. So for large breed dogs, we do not want to overfeed them and have them grow too quickly – even growing slowly and safely, they will still reach their genetic potential! 

Calcium requirements vary with size and growth rate.   Large breed dogs need optimum levels of calcium to support their long growth. Too little calcium intake causes the fragile skeletons to be malformed, and may result in pathologic fractures. Too much calcium causes damage because it limits proper bone remodeling during growth.  Due to their calcium sensitivities, large and giant breed puppies should never be given calcium supplements; rather they should be fed a complete and balanced diet that has been specifically designed for large and giant breeds.

Finally, the small breeds’ digestive tract represents, on the average, 7% of their total bodyweight compared to only 2.7% for giant breeds. Large breed puppies have a tendency to produce more loose stools (stools with more moisture) than smaller breed puppies. This is because the permeability (leakiness) of their intestinal walls is greater than that of small breed puppies, which increases fecal moisture and lowers the quality of their stools.  Also, food remains in the large intestine of large breed dogs for a longer period of time than it does in smaller breeds.  This allows more fermentation to take place, which again, leads to softer stools.  Therefore, it is crucial to adapt the digestibility of the puppies’ food based on its size.

Dogs and cats can be exposed to Salmonella from contaminated Pet food, from exposure to other animals that are shedding Salmonella in their feces and from contaminated human foods that we give our Pets, such as raw meats and eggs.  Most dogs and cats when exposed to Salmonella do not get sick, but they can shed the Salmonella organisms in their feces for three to six weeks or more.  These feces can act as a source of exposure to other Pets or people.  Occasionally Salmonella will cause vomiting and diarrhea in Pets, and much less commonly, severe illness with endotoxemia and fever.  Clearly, if your Pet had any of these signs, you should see your veterinarian immediately.

We can reduce the risk of exposure to Salmonella by following a few simple hygienic rules.  We should never ever give our Pets raw meats, and we should always make sure that the meats and eggs are fully cooked. All food and water bowls should be cleaned every day, and food storage containers should be thoroughly washed when it is empty and prior to adding new food.  It is also important to be hygienic when disposing of feces, and always wash our hands thoroughly.